Sniffing the bark
Anytime you relocate a domesticized animal into a new environment, you’ll note its’ instinctive reaction is to nose around the immediate surroundings on a first-hand fact-finding mission which leads to evaluation of the suitability of the given area for secure habitation.
Dogs run along, pressing their snout against trees in search of territorial markings. Cats operate much more cautiously, relying on their eyes and ears just as much as sense of smell.
On the other hand, goats and sheep tend to just start eating.
Now, I’d already received a couple well-intentioned warnings from Romanian natives who raise their eyebrows in seriousness and spoke to me in concerned tones, “this is considered a ‘bad neighborhood’ so please be careful.”
My general approach is to take note of such observations, but also to take them with a grain of salt because a great many of these designated areas aren’t really that bad. Smile politely, nod in affirmation of comprehension, acknowledge their care for your safety and thank them for the information.
It’s a little hard for me to stifle a chuckle, except I appreciate the intentions of the advice. Yet there’s always the part of me which feels obligated to explain that I was born and raised in L.A., whose greater metropolitan area has a population equal to about half of all Romania.
“Serios. Deci, many people think acest cartier is dangerous. Be careful.”
“You think that scares me? I’m from Los Angeles. We invented gangs!”
It is true that my new location is filled with poor people. It’s not so much the ghetto-looking concrete blocks in a horrible state of disrepair. Rather, the subtle key is in clueing into the detail that there are no beggars here. They know there’s no breadcrumbs to be found from my neighbors.
I’m sure some people might conclude cartierul meu must be gasca-infested because all the young men dress like extras from an MC Hammer or Vanilla Ice video. It’s more likely they only mimic American TV to impress the herds of 14 year old girls dressed up like miniature sex workers parading all over town.
It’s always possible I misunderstood the advice from my kibitzers who may perhaps have been referring to the rush hour traffic. You see, every evening each and every single resident of the city clones him or herself at least four times and then miraculously pulls a full-size automobile out of thin air.
Subsequently, as if cued in concert, millions of people suddenly drive into backstreets and alleys like blood cells filling a capillary where they next co-ordinate a rendition of Handel’s Messiah by car horn while simultaneously outputting sufficient carbon monoxide to surpass Mexico City’s smog density.
At least, that’s one way to summarize the area when you’re gathering scents of the territory.
But, as a recent student of the Capratic School of Acclimational Theoriology, I’ve concluded that the only reliable method for determining the inherent rauness or bineness of a particular Romanian neighborhood is to venture out-of-doors for personal inspection of its’ agile comestibles infrastructure.
I’m here to tell ya: my new neighborhood fantastic!
Wanna know why?
Sigur.
It’s like this, partner. Near as I can figure, if mathematics is the language of deities, then I reckon the relative morality most any neighborhood in Romania could be judged based on whether or not it has a dismal kebab-to-kilometer ratio.
I suspect the invisible man in the sky wants this here Romer!can to be blessed with the bounty of all the heavens, I tell you what. Hoooo, doggy!
Why, just down the street a ways, there’s a local shaorma kebabery within easy moseying-distance. Judging by the thinness of their clients, it seems like a form of health food. You’ll find it on Calea Ferentari, right next door to a “meat and cheese shop” (which apparently allows dogs inside).
Yessir, the big city is taking fine care of me already. Unlike the backwards haphazardry of Braşov, I got the impression food service employess in the capital may have actually washed their hands sometime during the past several hours.
And to top it off, you can really get a sense of the deep concern for public health seen elsewhere in the European Union by noting the high quality safety precaution of a fabric-based hairnet.
I gotta admit, kids, it’s really great to be able to stroll down your street to the main drag and find the cluster of magazini encircle your very own neighborhood şaorma vendor. Hot, juicy meat on a vertical spindle rotating gracefully before the soothing caress of gas-flamed fingers.
Carve some meat before the customers’ very eyes. Couple it with a handful of cartofi prajiti. Add some cabbage, onions, three pieces of pickle, a little ketchup, some curry-tinged mystery sauce, and wrap it all up in warm lipie. Sell it at 8 RON for a mica and 10 RON for a mare.
In case you’re grabbing a quick bite to go, but need to continue on to some other destination, you’ll be happy to find a convenient taxi station right there. Unlike the United States where you generally must call a taxi (unless you’re in front of a hotel or airport), in Romania taxis tend to gather in designated zones.
If you’re local, then you know where the ones near you are. And the ones near your work. And the ones near your lovers. And the ones near your parents. And the ones… well, since a great many Romanians never actually call a cab, you can see why it might be important to know the spots where the city says they’re allowed to gather.
Just down the street seems awfully convenient to me. Yeehaw.
Bear in mind, on this particular junket, the intent was to survey the surrounding environs. There’s no sin in deciding to walk a little further down Ferentari. When you get to the intersection for Calea Rahovei, there’s a massive bustle of activity.
Seven hundred and forty eight billion automobiles. Swaths of pedestrians line up on the street corners jostling for the green light when they swarm like mosquitos in a Louisiana swamp. And then there’s the electric trams of the light-rail system whizzing past every other second.
One of the stores on the corner has the logo of a green cricket and a name written in an undecipherable script font. Inside, they’ve got piles of real, actual lettuce from local farmers which had been a rare find in Braşov, no matter where you shopped.
Here, they also sell lipie and hummus. At a random store! Previously, such luxuries were only available to me via Braşov’s giant Carrefour megamart. It’s great news because this new store is roughly as far away from me now as Carrefour used to be. Otherwise, I’d be in dire straits during involuntary hummus cravings.
Now, I really knew I was in the big leagues when checkout time came along. When I produced a cascade of folded plastic bags from my pockets, in order to bag up my goods, people stared at me like was some Vidor hick who slackjaw stumbled into the 5th Ward.
It’s impressive. After being in Braşov all this time, I had nearly forgotten what it’s like to have a store not charge you an arm and a leg for thin little bags to carry home the stuff you bought. That’s right, you outlanders in the Transylvanian wilds, you get the pungas for free!
Buying some vegetables from a farm-direct street vendor? They’ll give you a free bag. What if you pop into a magazin to pick up some brewskis? That’s right: free bag. I think I’ll be able to quickly re-adjust to this normality.
I know my readers. You’re waiting for the other shoe to drop.
And you’re right. There was another shawarma kabob stand in the vicinity. It’s kinda kitty corner from the green cricket mini-market. As if to trigger your subconscious longing for fresh meat, it is appropriately named The Lion.
The friendly gal working the shop sliced some chicken off the rotisserie into Lebanese flat bread. Throw in some french fries. Cabbage, pickles, and an onion salad was piled on top before plying the shaorma kebab with a funky ketchup-like sos “picant” which was more sugary than it was spicy. Typical sweet sauce Romanians seem to love.
She sells large shaorma for 11 RON, but I had ordered the mica for 9 RON (just under USD$4). I got a little carried away in gnawing the Turkish wrap about half way before remembering you might like to see how it looked. You’ll just have to forgive the tackiness of the bite marks .
Glory be! Directly next door is a third vendor of saurma kebap. Rejoice in hallelujah, brothers, for the land is bountiful indeed. Espirito santo. Amen.
The tickler is this place advertises being open non-stop and it’s not a far walk from where I sleep. Plus, it seems to attract a steadier stream of clientele, which is normally a sign of tasty wares wherever you see locals lining up.
Melissa’s offers other food like şnitel (a super-thin chicken breast which is breaded and fried before placement on a burger-like bun) and kebab chifla sandwiches. True to form, however, I bypassed these inferior offerings and instead opted for the much-treasured shaorma kebap.
Lemme tell ya, despite the bad attitude of the grumpy employee, the şaorma from this kiosk was — bluntly — outstanding. Tender, moist white meat just dripping with an amazing flavor. They had a delicious “hot” sauce which was a distant cousin to salsa in both texture and flavor.
Pile the breast in insanely large amounts, couple with fries, bury it in varza and onions. Add that salsa-like stuff, shove in a fistful of pickles. Avoid the pickled, green chili peppers covered in some kind of decade-old waxy, dusty mold. Watch the guy struggle to roll the lipie which holds it all together.
11 RON later, you’ve got yourself a mare saurma. Or, if you prefer, you can shell out 9 lei for the small version. I’m satisfied my gamble was the right decision. And to prove it, I ate the entire thing without even nabbing a picture.
It was that good.
No need for you to feel dejected. I didn’t entirely rip you off by excluding all the salient details. I was able to make good on your expectations.
You see, my friends, directly across the street on this very busy intersection was yet another kebab stand. Only this one looked oddly familiar.
That’s right, you sharp-eyed eagle! Melissa’s has a second location on the other side of the strada. I don’t know if they felt threatened by Leul or just wanted to compete with themselves for business, but there you have the double take all the same.
Ever reliable, you can trust in me for complete inspection of all sordid details, dear reader. I’m sure you can heartily agree it would be wholly unromer!can if I were to let such an opportunity for comparison go to waste. Oh, you’ve little idea the sufferings I endure for your literary pleasure.
I saddled right up to the order window and my journey to the dark side was complete. I’ve no guess as to what Melissa pays her employees, but this fellow was as disinterested in my enthusiasm as a mule shown the annotated and unabridged Emily Dickinson collection. Frankly, I remain somewhat surprised I could coax him into completing an order.
Maybe he’s got a second job because that red hat carried the official golden arches of McDonalds. Plus it matched the deep, red bags under his eyes which betrayed how tired the dude must have been. Still, he summoned the strength to persevere the ordeal of assembling another kebap.
The hypnotic turning of the protein morsels kept me in a trance momentarily, until I noticed that the green peppers at this location were looking reasonably fresh which meant I had to demand the inclusion of five or six onto my kebab to fire it up a little bit. Giddyap.
Half asleep, this guy doctored up my meal with oodles of fries, large quantities of cabbage, a healthy portion of ceapa salat, copious pickle slices, and three scoops of the picant sauce. The lipie was clearly undersized for its’ plentiful contents, but I had to get one more thing.
There was some strange black flakes in a small, metal bowl. I’m not 100% sure precisely what they were, but it seems they were some kind of chargrilled pepper casings blackened to the point of being brittle. I requested the application of this midnight dust onto my culinary consortium before parting with 9 RON for the small.
And there you have it, folks.
The enhanced flavor provided by the grilled pepper bits cannot be overexaggerated, nor left off any future kebap excursions. In fact, I can say, without reservation, that this is the world’s greatest kebab. Braşov’s greatest is still worth a visit, but this fourth dimension of local shawarmacity now reigns as the undisputed king.
You’re wondering how in the world did I manage to eat all four kebaburi on the same afternoon. The answer is quite simple. Adeverat. It’s that you’re oversimplifying this presentation into a single event, when it was actually staggered successively.
Oh, Rahova, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways…
Four, actually. You cannot complain about the kebab situation. I think I’ll be able to surive somehow. And those who told me Rahova was considered a bad neighborhood are clearly wacked out of their gourd.
But, in fairness, it’s not exactly the land of milk and honey over here. You need to be aware that it’s entirely impossible to find a pizza non-stop to deliver to sector 5. In that arena, Braşov has clearly got Bucureşti beaten by a thousand kilometers.
I mean, really, this is the capital city… and there’s no non-stop pizza livrare la domiciliu. That’s pathetic. Even Ramnicu Valcea has better service than Bucureşti. It’s embarrassing. Shameful, even.
How in the world do you people survive?
March 30th, 2007 at 10:53 pm
You’re funny. You’re a funny guy.
March 31st, 2007 at 12:21 am
Watch out; it could be me knocking on your door before long.
March 31st, 2007 at 2:11 am
I’ve had something like that in the first picture, except I remember it had fries in it along with a lot of mayo and ketchup.
March 31st, 2007 at 2:36 am
Nice, really nice article. So you’re enjoying Bucureşti, except for the pizza ordering thing.
I really like the way you mix RO-EN words “you get the pungas for free”. :))
Keep it up!
March 31st, 2007 at 6:59 am
Fantastic post :)
I have to admit that I got Rahova from “this is considered a ‘bad neighborhood’ so please be careful” and my first thought was “why in the name of God would he pick THAT ‘hood?” But then I remembered that you’re immersing yourself in the romanian life head-on, so why the hell NOT Rahova?
And you’re getting reeeeeaaaly good at Romglish, congrats :))
Have fun in Bucharest, you kinda revived some longing to revisit - so here, I’ll say it: I wish I was there.
I’ll treat my “dor” with your witty posts-to-come about the life in the capital - and I’m anxious to hear what you have to say (chuckling already).
Screw pizza.
March 31st, 2007 at 10:22 am
That last one with the “black dust” looked like a taste sensation, I’m now hungry and jealous in equal amounts. Thanks for another great insight.
March 31st, 2007 at 12:35 pm
Jacob - Yeah, the kebab in the first photo had fries, just not too many. Some places really pour entirely too much ketchup and mayonnaise, don’t they? Then again, I order mine fara maioneza (which is often, though not always, honored).
Denisa - Welcome to the show! You know, it’s darn near impossible to find anyone who delivers pizza non-stop anywhere in town, let alone the southwest side. I was pretty shocked by that.
Punga has been my favorite word lately. I’ll latch onto some term from time to time, overuse and abuse it in unintended ways and drive my friends batty. I just like the way it sounds.
Lola - Thanks. You really guessed the neighborhood? Hmmm, that sounds like a bad sign. So far, it seems okay. Of course, if the blog suddenly dies, please call the police. Cuz I’ll B out C-in’ da hood, lyk a str8-up G keepin it 4RLY 24/7 - U kno how WE do.
Well, the weather here is great right now, so I expect to my inspection circle may expand fairly rapidly. There’s some other ‘bad’ areas nearby that I plan to check out soon. And after that, I don’t know. But let’s not forget I’ve still got a backlog of other shareworthy tales just dying to finally get published.
Now, now… pizza is a religious experience.
Alex - I’m here to swear it was a remarkable flavor. I need to find out exactly what that stuff is and how it’s prepared because I don’t believe I’ve ever tasted anything quite exactly like it. The magic black powered and being non-stop probably ensure Melissa will get the majority of my kebab money.
March 31st, 2007 at 4:56 pm
AHHHHH! Looks like you have landed in kebob-heaven! Btw, taxis in New York City (which is in my mind the “real” capital of the U.S.) are everywhere and extemely easy to hail. I’m already looking forward to your upcoming discoveries of Bucharesti.
March 31st, 2007 at 6:07 pm
After reading the article and other like it on your blog I was thinking that maybe there should be a Wiki of good places to eat in Romania, I rely on locals to tell me about the places to eat when I’m in unfamiliar territory and perhaps we could bring this word of mouth into the 21st Century Wiki style
Anybody up for a joint project?… =)
March 31st, 2007 at 6:07 pm
Hey, you’re in my neighborhood!
I have to admit, when I heard you were coming to Bucureşti, I figured you’d go for one of the “cool” neighborhoods - never did I imagine you’d find your way here… Now, with that said, I have to say I’ve lived here for years and it’s not so bad. Just don’t mind the stray dogs - they’ve started multiplying again since the last culling.
Eh, so how ’bout I tell you a story - this is my first post here on your blog, after all, and it’d be a shame to let you go without noting what a small world it is.
See, I found your blog via my SO - she was looking for pictures from Romania and ran across one of your beer pictures from the whole “Dracula” beer fiasco (mwahaha, I’ve reminded you of that horrible taste, have I not? I truly am evil). Now, here’s the “it’s a small world” bit - she’s all the way in the US (and I’m not), and she’s never been here (which is why she was looking for pictures from here in the first place). When I started reading your blog, I was sad to hear you were all the way in Braşov, ’cause you seemed like a lot of fun and I wanted to see how you found the capital (that, and I wanted to meet you. I still do, honestly, but maybe that’s a topic best left for another time).
And now you’re not only here, but you’re in the area - how small *is* the world, after all? You could’ve gone over to Militari, or deep in the heart of Ferentari, or you could’ve gone to Titan, or else you might’ve ended up in Cotroceni (and I admit this latter one was what I was suspecting), but you’re here in Rahova instead, and I’m surprised. Quite pleasantly, I might add.
So, now that I’ve given you a lot to read (for which verbosity I sincerely apologize), here’s wishing you a wonderful time in Bucharest. You can bet I’ll keep following your blog - you’re lots of fun.
Noroc, prietene!
March 31st, 2007 at 7:11 pm
Looks like some fun times ahead in the big city….both for you and for us (the readers). Keep those photos coming….they add color to the story!
March 31st, 2007 at 8:24 pm
This post should have been named the kebab tour….It’s funny how people percieve certain areas as “bad” If they only got out and took a walk, most would see otherwise…as for the dog posing outside the butcher shop….ha….Maria & I were walking through downtown Sebes on our last day of vacation, in search of some cascaval to illegally import. We indeed saw the same sight…a local dog, posed in wait as if meat was going to come falling out the door any second. On our one night whirlwind tour i saw something you might get a kick out of…Somewhere downtown, netween the revolution square and the airport is a building plastered with half naked women and a sign proclaiming “I’m hot & wild, come and get me”…hillarious…!!! Bucarest reminds me of an even bigger Boston…everything rolled up into one…Poftit!!!
March 31st, 2007 at 9:02 pm
Romerican.
I also am proud to have a world class eatery such as you’ve described within walking distance of my home. My shaorma shop is being run by some Harvard Business School Grad. They have a buy 4 get the 5th free policy. That’s not all…For those who don’t have 4 friends or who cannot put down 5 big wraps by themselves there’s another policy. For every wrap purchased, you get a coupon (stamped of course for authenticity) worth 1 RON! That’s right. So the next time you visit, your treat costs a little less. Not convinced this is the best place in the world to get a Shaorma? There are three signs on the window where you order. The first says “You should always receive your food within 2 minutes of placing your order…or it’s free!” The second sign says, “Your satisfaction is our business. If you are not happy for any reason, please let us know by calling us at:…. then they list 3 cell phone numbers. The third sign is the kicker. It lists the rules of the establishment (a small stand really). Rule 1 - you have the right to be served high quality, hot, food in a reasonable amount of time; Rule 2 - you have the right to be served in a friendly and helpful manner. Rule 3 - We use all fresh ingredients and never reuse or reheat anything. We practice clean practices in preparation and service of all our food.
In order to avoid an all out exodus to my personal shaorma stand I will withhold the exact locations of the place…except to say that it’s in Targoviste near the new bus station about 150 meters from Plus.
happy Shaormaing
April 1st, 2007 at 6:13 am
Romerican -
I’m so jealous!! i fell in love with bucharest and shwarma while backpacking europe. you are a lucky, lucky man. Post more pics of your neighborhood…
April 1st, 2007 at 10:15 am
Dude, you describe Bucharest (and especially Rahova) as the world capital of kebab :))) People will think we romanians live on kebab alone (not that this wasn’t true). Remember, we suck blood as well! :))
If you’re in the mood for discoveries I’d like to take you for sampling at two of the most famous kebab places in Bucharest: Dristor and Genin:)) We can visit Maverick in Drumul Taberei to check the runner-ups for the title too :))
April 1st, 2007 at 12:38 pm
Shadowchase - I’ve recently discovered there are additional riches nearby. Yes, the taxi cab situation here is somewhat New Yorkish in that sense, but NY taxi culture is quite different from just about everywhere else in the US. Wait a couple months and you’ll believe all Romanians are cab drivers.
Alex - That’s not a half-bad idea. I’ve got a backlog of food-related content to post, too. But I’m not quite ready to make a big project of it. Can we revisit this later? Or, if you start without me, will you let me know where? I like the concept.
Narc - Way to start off on the wrong foot; you did -indeed- give me flashbacks of that horrid swill, you bastard. Now, it’ll be creeping in my mind for the rest of the day. Yech. It is a pretty small world, though. When’s she coming for a visit?
I’ll probably take a little more time to get settled, but be up for meeting a handful of new people soonish. Since you’re here in the ‘hood, I may as well move you up into VIP status. Speaking of small world, I briefly lived in a remote part of Idaho very close to the headquarters of the Aryan Nation. Just yesterday, I found I’m living near the main national headquarters for Partidul Pentru Patrie. Imagine the possibilities for mischief. There’s even a PRM office nearby!
mon ami - Things are a little more wild and wooly here, so pictures are a definite must. I’ll try to grab some photos of the homes behind me, because they’re interesting. There are some tiny parks and large cemetaries within walking distance, so I might check some of those out nextish.
Ron - Hahaha. And isn’t it weird how they all seem to have been conditioned (beaten) to know better than to actually set paw inside the door? I guess they’re hoping some scrap will fall on the floor at which point they might risk the steal.
Thanks for the tip! Half-naked ladies don’t dampen my spirits one bit and that sounds like the kind of sex tourism kitsch well-worth documenting. Heh. Humans are funny and hypocritical creatures. Maybe I’ll bring some single bills for after I’ve photocriticized them.
Jon - You floored me with that one. I mean that is a really really positive development which I believe Romania needs to see more of. Would you happen to have/be able to get any photos of the place?
Amazingly, for all the times I’ve been to/through Ploiesti and to/through Pitesti, I’ve never once gone off the main highway and visited Targoviste. There’s a lot of history there. And with this report tipping the scales, you can bet I’ll come this summer.
newt - Isn’t it great travel food? Cheap, fast, easy, and tasty. Meets all the qualification. What I find interesting is the prices in Romania seem to be a little higher than what I remember paying in Hungary, Austria, Germany, and other places.
patric - Wait’ll you get a load of what I found nearby yesterday. Rahova’s not quite done impressing me yet. Y’know, an enterprising figure could really institutionalize the kebab by serving it with zacusca. Eh?
Hmm, a kebab tour? That sounds intriguing. Maybe as something of a prelude to the official 2007 Romer!can Summer BBQ Tour which I’ve been thinking of finalizing. How do those places you mention compare to the neargodliness of Pita Fan over by Politecnic?
April 1st, 2007 at 2:32 pm
Sorry we couldn’t meet in Braşov. I’m glad to hear things are working out for you.
Can’t wait for your opinions about Vanghelie (“care este”). Did you get to see the painted apartment buildings and sidewalks? I have a feeling you’ll grow to miss Scripcaru. :D
About the “pungas”: make sure it doesn’t turn into “pungaş” (“pickpocket”).
April 1st, 2007 at 4:26 pm
“Way to start off on the wrong foot; you did -indeed- give me flashbacks of that horrid swill, you bastard. Now, it’ll be creeping in my mind for the rest of the day. Yech.”
Mwahaha, I’m evil, I know :P
“It is a pretty small world, though. When’s she coming for a visit?”
Eh… more likely I’ll be going for a visit, if I can get all my stuff together by this summer - but if you really wanna hear about my boring life, I’m sure that could be better done over something drinkable (and non-alcoholic for me, thank you very much). So, another time, another place.
“I’ll probably take a little more time to get settled, but be up for meeting a handful of new people soonish. Since you’re here in the ‘hood, I may as well move you up into VIP status.”
Haha, I feel all special now - I’ve never been a VIP before ;)
“Speaking of small world, I briefly lived in a remote part of Idaho very close to the headquarters of the Aryan Nation. Just yesterday, I found I’m living near the main national headquarters for Partidul Pentru Patrie. Imagine the possibilities for mischief. There’s even a PRM office nearby!”
Geez, you get around. I’ve been living in this neighborhood for years and haven’t seen any of those things. Then again, I’m generally apolitical and have an unspeakable disgust of racism (which is not say I’m so perfect that I don’t find myself practicing it also… but I try not to, and I do kick myself in the head if I find I’m not following through with my ideals - I’m only human, eh?) so maybe that’s why. Or else maybe I’m just too content to live in my own little bubble - and maybe I should change that, non?
I’d love to hear more - heck, I’m not done reading all of your archives yet - so keep on writing. You’re one of the awesome ones.
April 1st, 2007 at 5:00 pm
Welcome to Bucharest! again :)
I cannot believe you live in Rahova… but what can I say LA did remind me of Rahiva :) except for the highways, of course. But try being a pedestrian in LA, you’ll get lots of stares and cusses from those drivers upset you really wnat to cross the street, on a pedestrian crossing, when the light is red for them!
anyway, let me say, the best shaworma/kebab is in Constanta in the old town. The next best one is definetely at the corner of my street in cartierul Titan (supposing the Kurdish guy who used to make them still works there).
how long do you paln on staying in Bucharest? And do go to piata Obor for an interesting experience of shopping for local produce and beyond.
April 1st, 2007 at 5:27 pm
This is a fabulous post. Thanks for the tour.
April 2nd, 2007 at 10:19 am
CO - We’ll see if we can’t squeak in a beer later in May when I’ll be back for sure. Thanks for heads up on Vanghelie; this oughta be fun to study. But I’ll start with an open mind and just observe. Y’know Brasov lost water citywide again for a day or two, but this time it was miraculously not Scripcaru’s doing.
Yes, pungas not pungaş! I did encounter a pickpocket on the number 4 bus shortly after it left the gara, when I was on my way to the centru. He didn’t get anything, but he did try. Up until now, that was the only time for a pungaş. Is there a different word for pursesnatcher? I was once followed by one in Bucuresti where the guy wasn’t too bright and it became so obvious he wanted to snatch my camera bag.
Narc - We’ll have to wait and see what I find in the next week or so. I’ve no idea what’s really around here, but it won’t be long until I get the rough hang of it. I did finally bump into one wanna-be “gang” which fell silent and stared at me as I walked pass. I stared back and, after I passed, they were all excited asking each other who was that guy. As if it was important. Meh.
Ruxi - Thanks! There are a boatload of teenagers around here and they are all super damn loud, as if yelling out every random thought will cause the world to pay attention to their existance. I suspect, therefore, I must be living on some commonly used walking route for going to/from a school. I try to convince myself it’s a good sign that they’re excited about life.
Constanta kebab, eh? Hmmm. I never made it to the seaside, but know that I need to. I want to check out Constanta, 2 Mai, Vama Veche, Galati, and Tulcea/delta. If I won the lottery, I’d buy a camper van (disregard their lack of existance here) and spend the 4 summer months heading up and down the coast line. There must be a mess of places to check out or get into trouble at.
Barring any unforeseen surprises, I should probably be in Bucuresti for at least a year. Somehow it seems fairly likely it’ll end up being two years. Beyond that I wouldn’t find it wise to speculate. Kurdish kebab in Titan, check. Piata Obor, check. Who’s going to play my bodyguard when I tour through Pantelimon? That’s what I wanna know.
Mist1 - You should see what passes for barbeque. They’ll throw some chick on the grill, brush on some oil, and maybe sprinkle thyme on it. That’s all I’ve ever seen done. I’m thinkin’ the Fickle Finger of Fate wants me to bring a little southern cookin’ this way. Don’tcha think these people need a little bit of BBQ in their lives?
April 2nd, 2007 at 4:22 pm
ohmygod. I recognized the first picture, before reading any word. So, welcome to my neighbourhood…
In a few days you will probably find in your mailbox some leaflets from pizza delivery companies. one is jerry’s pizza (you may find them at Penny Market Nasaud street) or Pizza la cuptor cu lemne- there are more, but now I can’t remember their names…There is even a so called Chinese food delivery http://www.hailamasa.ro in Salaj street (Ferentari).
April 2nd, 2007 at 4:24 pm
That place doesn’t look ghetto at all to me, it actually looks cozy. Try taking a walk in Detroit (3rd highest crime rated city in the world) and then tell me about ghetto, hahahaha.
Do me a favor, get a box, shove a bunch of those things in it and mail them to me. It’s morning here right now, but those pics made me hungry as shit. Glad your diggin’ the new landscape.
April 2nd, 2007 at 9:26 pm
hey, I’m in Sector 5 myself. We should visit :)
April 2nd, 2007 at 9:26 pm
Oh, and they deliver pizza at my place :)
April 2nd, 2007 at 10:43 pm
bradutz- I think the problem was they don’t deliver around the clock; by the way (slight detour), is that Piticot still around here, down Petre Ispirescu? I haven’t been down those streets in a while (I know, I know, I should be ashamed for not visiting my own neighborhood more).
April 3rd, 2007 at 8:55 am
Capitala vazuta prin ochii unui american…
Ce experiente are un American prin Romania….
April 3rd, 2007 at 9:25 am
mutz - Another Rahovian? w00t. I’ve heard people talk about Jerry’s Pizza as though it were the best. I’m skeptical, of course, and will investigate sometime this month. I’ve been wondering where this Penny Market was, since I saw the ads on the street. Nasaud, eh? I can probably find that.
“Chinese food” in Romania scares me because I’ve yet to find any that actually comes close to chinese food. I’m not the world’s biggest fan of Chinese food, but when all I find is very non-Chinese dish, you’ll have to understand I’m deeply unimpressed. And we haven’t even started into Szechuan, Hunan, Cantonese…
My lord, have you looked at that menu? It gave me quite a laugh this morning. :) Oltenian carnati? Tocanita? Snitel? Serbian rice? Cod in tomato sauce? Hahah, I didn’t find any chinese food on the menu at all. Hilarious!
xamox - Yeah. How’s that real estate market coming along, big guy? If I was you, I’d be trying to get my mortgage loan for some bigger-than-I-can-afford home while the prices are still outrageously low. It’ll take some years before the prices bounce back, but in 5 years or so…. you’ll be sittin’ real pretty.
bradutz - You are?! Awesome. You know you’re already pre-approved for top secret clearance by the secret service. I’ll email you and we’ll see how your schedule looks for getting together on Thu/Fri/Sat. You’ll have to show me around a little, though. Is it Bumerang Pizza? Hehehe.
Narc - You know, from what I can gather, there is no non-stop pizza at all anywhere in Bucuresti. How in the hell did that happen? Giant Pizza appears to be out of business. And so did the other company (whose name I forget) which advertised non-stop delivery. Brasov has multiple choices whereas Bucuresti feels like living in Tismana or something. Weird.
April 3rd, 2007 at 11:13 am
mutz - Belatedly, I see now the Wu Xing menu (note this is yet another Romanian company whose website stupidly fails to work if you leave off the www because they apparently do not know the basics of server configuration). The items listed there sound mo’ bettah now. I suppose I should try it at some point; it’ll be with some trepidation but who can resist frog legs?
April 3rd, 2007 at 5:42 pm
Great post! I laughed with tears when reading about the plastic bags and yes, you got me, I was counting the shaormas you were eating :-))…
April 4th, 2007 at 8:31 am
Not only enjoying the post, but the comments as well!!!!
April 4th, 2007 at 2:48 pm
Romer!can - Somehow, I think Brasov has spoiled you. Next you’ll be wishing for pollution-free air, and various other such capitalist inventions :P
In other news, I have no idea how Brasov got so far ahead of Bucharest in that particular domain - I’d've thought for sure there’d be 24h delivery *somewhere* in the city. ‘Tis strange, it really is.
Also, side note - aren’t frog legs a part of French cuisine?
April 4th, 2007 at 7:15 pm
ok looks like you’ll be in my nation’s capital for a while. you may also like to try Becker Brau (get bere la metru, nefiltrata) Calea Rahovei 155 (it’s close to piata Unirii/piata chrigiu, one of the trams from your area will take you there, the one that goes all the way down to piata unirii/piata alba iulia)
and also try Gara lipscani (Str. Lipscani nr. 38, colt cu Gabroveni) old bucharest. the place is cheap and different, the waiters used to be really nice and funny. you’ll have to go down in the basement to find the place. there is a rail road type of sign outside, no fancy mark.
April 4th, 2007 at 10:05 pm
Ruxi- for the sake of completeness, the tram you’re thinking of is 32.
April 5th, 2007 at 5:50 am
Just thought this was a great post! and to finish my reply… “…pick up your samurai sword and shave my butt”… LOL
April 5th, 2007 at 11:22 am
Ruxi- I think Becker Brau is the REAL reason for romerican to move in Rahova. The shawrma facilities pictured here are very close…
April 5th, 2007 at 12:25 pm
Zu - Oh, it was such a sense of liberation to know I’d no longer need to bring my own raggedy plastic bags and yet the moment was bittersweet with the disdainful looks from other shoppers bringing me shame that I’d even brought sacks with me to begin with.
mon ami - Hornet’s nest, eh?
Narc - Maybe we can apply for an IMF loan in order to bring Bucuresti a pizza infrastructure of the modern era. Use Brasov as the per capita baseline, then scale!
Pui la balta may be French, but on the other side of the pond we tend to call it cajun. Mmmm…
Ruxi - First of all, if you weren’t already married to that vice-president of Microsoft…. well, what I mean to say is I love your recommendations. I think I’ll have to obtain the assistance of a local, however, as I walked the length of Calea Rahovei (as designated on my map) last night but never saw Becker Brau. But then, the same streets change names with disturbing frequency here and I don’t find any of these piatas just yet.
I can just see myself now, totally lost on Tram 3 and whimpering to the police chief, “but… but… Ruxi and Narc both said…”
Gara Lipscani sounds like something I can find. The Lipscani area is a great place to wander around anyway. I really enjoyed my time there over Revelion. Actually, don’t tell anyone, but I still have more photos to post about that.
AF - You mean Tito. Toto is what we had for dinner last night!
mutz - Shawarma stands are near Becker Brau? I think I’ll be forced to find it. Without or without guidance. Tally ho!
Anyone - Is this Becker Brau that place near Carrefour? Or am I totally confused?
April 5th, 2007 at 5:57 pm
http://www.sapteseri.ro/index.php?page=details&ln=3&city=1&pid=95
sapte seri has a map of this place. basically it is close to the parliament palace (casa poporului) close to Unirea.
i am coming home some time this summer, so if you cannot find the place till then, i’ll take you there. But hopefully you won’t have to wait that long… did I mention they have beer garden girls and beer house music? It’s sort of a tiny romanian version of bavaria…
April 5th, 2007 at 7:04 pm
Oooh, thanks! Now, I’ll find it for sure. I would guess soonish. I wonder what bradutz is doing this weekend. I think if you do come back, a visit to Becker Brau will be in order. By summer, I should theoretically be up for more frequent socializing around town.
April 8th, 2007 at 11:52 pm
[...] the glory! Walking to the nearby pastiserie on Ferentari, next to the closest kebab stand. It’s a closely held family store which serves the neighborhood with freshly baked pasteries. [...]
April 23rd, 2007 at 10:49 pm
Hey bud,
Congratulation on the move! All I can tell you is try not to drive in Bucharest, you will live 20 years longer. Its an awesome city, but it does take some getting used to it. Sort of like Cuban music, you know its good, but you have to get into its rhythm to really appreciate it. Anyway if it every gets too crazy, just go to parcu tineretului and hang out. Its actually quiet there. Seriously!
Anyway, good luck with everything.
Ciao
PS: My trip was awesome and I have the evidence to prove it. =)
July 2nd, 2007 at 6:03 am
there’s a reasonable Chinese place in Timisoara fairly authentic given the location. its been there some years now and does fairly steady trade
i cant remember what i ate but it was good…..flamin ek is that the time been reading your stuff too long nice stuff too