On to Baciu
The way my hazy recollection works I believe you were gracious enough to endure my loquacious prattling about the epic excursion through Targu Mureş which landed me in the backseat of a scholar named Andrei, who would play the kindly benefactor in dropping me off on the northwest outskirts of Cluj.
Google map with overlays by Wikimapia
Fortunately, I knew precisely where I was. I struck out down the road in the direction of my birthplace confident that while I might never make the coastline, surely I would soon find myself in the suburban village of Baciu where I had friends to welcome me.
As an aside, there is precious little else which can attract the attention Romanian locals than an a large backpack steering some hapless, unkempt human being decked in ridiculous garb, who is clearly declaring himself an American lost off the beaten tourist paths.
Firstly, the native Romanian would never place a bag on his or her back, but firmly clutch it in hand lest it somehow get away. Secondly, as a general rule, people in the nation of Romania have never seriously considered the style and comfort of shorts in the summertime.
It may be a holdover from the centuries where churches told people what they were and were not allowed to do, say, think, and wear in most every facet of life because it seems that unless one is at the oceanside and hunting for sex on the beach, it is wholly unthinkable for a Romanian to bare his or her ankles in public.
On second thought, it’s probably because they fear death by curent.
For those of you who’ve not yet made the pilgrimage to this crossroad of history, let me indoctrinate you with the brazen oversimplification that you, too, can play Spot the Romanian in America, the UK, or wherever you might be from.
How? You’ve only got to keep an eye out for one of the two outfits they wear.
In places as varied as Sintra and Venice, I’ve seen Romanians standing around idly in groups numbering no less than three where each member of the gaşca is dressed in some variant of matching tracksuits by brands like Adidas or Puma.
The loud hoodlums will have their head shaven short precariously near the skull with a starkly unblended swath of hair lightener indiscriminantly slapped across some portion of their hair. They’ll gawk at every female that passes by.
When in doubt, you may take final confirmation by noting they are all but shouting excitedly at one another, perhaps punching one another in the shoulder, and listen for the dead giveaway of “pula mea” being repeated endlessly by the alphamale.
From Vienna to Kirkland, you’ll find the second form generally walking somewhere with purpose in a leather shoes, dark blue jeans, and a tight shirt enveloped in a black leather jacket. He often travels alone so as to optimize his availability for flirtatious engagements.
He will never sport a buzz cut. Hair defines this archetype into one of two subcategories. One will keep his hair dark and trim in a regular, somewhat-boxy cut as if to emphasize a business money approach. The other will have longer, straggly hair often tinsled with bits of gray as the artistic defiant.
With no exception, they’ll always be polite and engage in mostly serious conversation when presented with some opportunity to gain a business relationship or introduction to your attractive friend. In both cases, when encountering a target open for approach, they’ve got their priorities which do not include you.
“My god! I’ve seen Romanians before!” See? I can read your thoughts.
“Yeah, but, what about the chicks?”
Oh, right, well that’s an easy stereotype to perpetuate. Just find the beautiful women. Work up the nerve to approach whichever ones have luciously big, dark eyes and long dark hair with some semblance of fashion sense different from the boring prudes you prefer to ignore.
If they’re friendly to everyone without exception (even you) and speak excellent English with a distinguishable accent (which they believe does not exist), then you’ve made your mark. Confirm by calculating the percentage of flesh she is confident in revealing.
But, beware, she’s far smarter than you would possibly credit her for.
Okay, time to head trouble off at the pass. It’s infinitely foreseeable that one or two readers might get their tail bent out of shape over insisting that such generalizations could never hold true for the entire population who are quite different from the above sketches. Mostly, this person refers to themselves, of course.
Da, da, da. Deja ştiu. Glumesc!
We all know that once you’re in-country, the Romanians are just as varied a population as any other nation on this dirt ball. But we’re talking recognizable stereotypes. Y’know, like the ones you cling to: Americans are fat, lazy, rich, ignorant, self-aborbed, gun lovers, and bible thumpers.
I, too, object to condescending portrayals of entire cultures because I don’t fit the mould either. For example, one those seven things isn’t true about me.
It took me a few blocks of walking to realize not only would I stray wildly off-point in a future blog post, but I had lost every bit of confidence as to my present location. Everything was new and nothing looked familiar.
The simple fact was I’d never been on this damn street in my entire life.
Admitting defeat before Lolita lost all faith in my ability to be honest, I fumbled through my wallet desperately searching for the ten digits which could sound the alarm before I could be kidnapped by roaming gypsy caravans and never be heard from again.
There, there. Dry your tears. It all worked out.
A friendly voice at the other end of a mobile phone connection would make arrangements to safely transport me from my present uncertain whereabouts into the comforting arms of Baciu, where I learned a small event was soon to include me and some kind of plant which produced alcohol.
Curiouser and curiouser.
Staring into the eyes of every driver as the old Dacias passed me, I kept a look out for a small white 4-door sedan with two middle-aged adults in the front half. Until at last, the look of recognition gave way to smile and broke into a wave.
Ördögi was here rescue me.
Ismét.



March 4th, 2007 at 3:55 am
Glad you made it Ok. Baciu, that’s not a village n easy to get to. It starts with an adventure in the not-so-pitoresque industrial area of Cluj. What were you doing there? Your friends must be far more interesting than mine.
Went to Thaiku. Good but not impressive. Similar to Orrapin Thai cuisine on top of Queen Anne hill. I know, I know I’m spoiled. :)
March 4th, 2007 at 2:24 pm
Lumi – Perhaps it might have been easier to find theoretically, but I seem to have left out the key detail that I had no idea the name of my destination was Baciu, despite having been there several times before. Furthermore, I’d never paid attention to “how to get there” during past trips because I’d gone as car passenger… usually at night… while gabbing away.
So, it started out as a blind guess of saying, “I’ve been to that place before, whatever it’s called. I can find it again.”
But it is a suburban village. There’s really no other way to describe it. It’s a itty bitty town, with plenty of crops going, dusty broken roads, no entertainment, a select few magazines, virtually no street traffic, and all the petty gossip of people who know everything about each other.
The only difference is that a higher percentage take a bus to work in a factory, whereas some other villages have more sticking around for farming.
What didn’t you care for about Thaiku? The atmosphere is buzzing, the decor is rather attractive, the ‘opium bar’ up the stairs makes some great drinks like the oolongtini, appetizers like mieng kahm are amazingly outstanding, and the food is great. The only thing I didn’t care for was the minimalist service… but that should be familiar to a European.
I haven’t been to Orrapin, but I do have other Thai recommendations in other neighborhoods/areas. One more hipster place and then the rest are downhome, family-run joints which betray you with a lack of atmosphere… but reward the palate of those not superficial.
March 5th, 2007 at 4:15 pm
Actually your stereotypes are not limited to Romania. Lithuania has the tracksuit thing going. Mostly in Kanuas and its always accented with a gold necklace and the haircut is the same. Also all the kids listen ot Rap music but have no idea what the words are saying. Pretty funny.
Bucharest for me was pretty varied, I actually think everyone was pretty laid back. I felt very comfortable there. Romania is a really fabulous place to visit and I might end up there soon. If so I will be just fine and dandy with that. :)
March 5th, 2007 at 10:31 pm
StereoDevil – Welcome to the show! No doubt, you have a point about some crossover between stereotypical Romanian diaspora and other central/eastern European youth. Doesn’t it remind you of something from New York street like 25 years ago? It does to me.
Did you enjoy Bucuresti? The jury is still out for me, but I had a lot of fun the last time. Romania rocks. It’s a great place to visit and an interesting place to live.
March 6th, 2007 at 1:46 am
Well, about Thaiku.. We went there for lunch. The decore was pretty, I thought, but we were seated in the dining area close to a window. We didn’t order any alcoholic beverages. All we had was phad thai and red curry something, which were very good, but not memorable. Even though we arrived there rather early, before noon, it was packed. So that’s a good sign, huh? I’ll give it another change. Maybe we’ll go there for dinner and drinks one night. The only thing is we live in Bothell and Ballard is kinda outta way. I prefer the Eastside- Kirkland, Bellevue for socializing and trendy spots. Oh, and yeah, I’m more into trendy places, and I mean trendy with all the recent negative conotation, than hippy, laid-back places. I’m not a fan of those little coffee shops that sell weird-tasting,bold flavored coffees and look like ancient kitchens with chairs so shabby and from different epochs. I feel so uncomfortable making idle chit-chat with some dread-haired chick and tells me theday’s horoscope. I’m not that type of Seattlite. I’m an East side kinda snob. :) Gee, I’m really not a snob. I hope you kinda got my point.
March 6th, 2007 at 12:34 pm
Alright, for good food of the trendy sort, my recommendation is Jai Thai. It has a lively and colorful atmosphere, but isn’t snobbily plushed. Now, I had satisfying experiences at the Fremont location, but you might prefer trying their Capitol Hill venue.
For the deceptively simple, you’ll have to let me know if you ever travel on north side off I-5 because I can recommend knockout places in Lynnwood, Everett, and Stanwood (oh, yes! Stanwood! believe it). There is one place I’d feel very comfortable plugging on the eastside. Hanuman Thai in Kirkland. It’s a tiny little shop on the main drag nearish the waterfront. There are other standard fare thai places in Kirkland, but this inconspicuous mini-restaurant reigns supreme! And after that you can hit the nearby snobby clubs for a little evening fun.
Loved your Seattle stereotype. I take it you’ve eaten at the African restaurants in the U District, then? Hahaha.
March 22nd, 2007 at 5:11 pm
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