Sleeping in Sambata

There’s a world of difference between a Saturday morning in Romania and one in the United States.

Weekday heptagram

Generally speaking, the American Saturday is enjoyed as one of two days where you can catch a couple hours of rest without fear of being derelict in one’s daily responsibilities. There are exceptions, of course, for workaholics and those with toddlers. A bachelor not unlike myself can normally look forward to blissful slumber in relative peace.

Things get a bit livelier here in Romania, however. Take, for example, acesta dimineaţa which greeted me with a consequence well-deserved for leaving one’s window open overnight to escape the heat. I was awoken at an ungodly hour by a full chorus of eardrum-jarring auditory missives.

There was the standard sounds of people talking and sometimes yelling, to which I’ve mostly become accustomed, as well as the unmuffled rattletrap vehicles screaming down the streets in first gear. Mixed in were the summertime cries of Roma fruit vendors soliciting sales at high volume much like the towncriers of yore. Manele was generously being shared with the neighborhood by some energized bloc apartment dweller.

Additionally, I was lucky enough to be invited as a witness to the traditional Romanian wedding caravan. A long parade of Dacias who had somehow survived birth under Ceauşescu were aimlessly streaming down the small alley immediately outside my window completely undeterred by it’s no-exit, cul-de-sac status. No, they were all too happy to continuously blare their horns at long intervals in order to announce the joyful occassion to everyone within a 3 mile radius of the honking.

Indeed, as the drivers carefully attempted to turn around several vehicles at once in a space of road big enough for a single bicycle and maybe an orange, the front seat passenger clearly took over the duty of tootmaster so no one would be disappointed by a small measure of anticlimatic silence. Fortunately, it took them several minutes to reorganize the chain which meant I had plenty of time to enjoy their enthusiasm before I was saddened to see them traipse off to some other collection of bloc apartments they didn’t live near.

And then there was this guy, clearly inspired by the other musicians, who was playing the required covor-based instrument without which no Romanian neighborhood sound collection could possibly be complete.

A ubiquitous site in Romania

The highlight of the cacophony was something you would probably never find in Stateside: city repairs on a weekend!

City workers conducting repairs on Strada Cocorului in Brasov

They’d been making their way slowly down the street in order to make sure everyone got plenty of chances to sample their special high-bpm contribution to the morning’s orchestral passions.

Street re-construction in the Astra neighborhood

Impossibly, next were the loudest sounds of all. Rising like a tsunami over a placid beach were the shrill peaks intermittently eminating from a game referree’s whistle less then a hundred yards from my ears. I suspect he must have had one of those new electrically powered models to police the ensuing fotbal game, judging by its impressive ability to singularly stand out from all other noise threatening to crash down my early hour sanity into dust.

FC Brasov stadium just is outside my window

Last, but not least, were the distant rumblings of thunder and flashes of lightning which belied an otherwise sunny summer morning. The baritone claps echoed off the nearby mountainside valleys, creating something of a forceful if inconsistent rhythm. The sparsely gathered faithful were already making their exit.

FC Brasov football fans leaving before the rain

And, indeed, the rain did come as a kind of outro.

A man scurries down the street with dog to avoid the summer rain in Brasov

But not without the Prescon concrete company’s trucks signaling an end to the overture with the chiming of their rather loudish, industrial sized horns.

Prescon concrete trucks in Brasov

Yet, the brave FC Braşov players continued to dominate their opponents even as the desperately cold, wet, and blustery weather caused slippings. A bit of frustration built up and a few players turned to violence, allowing the whistletrumpeters to again accompany the handing out of several yellow cards in a row. Nonplussed, the forward strikers of FC Braşov popped in several goals as I began to realize I was now actually quite awake.

FC Brasov fotbal strikers drill the ball into the net

It turns out I wasn’t the only local watching from a high-rise apartment balcony as FC Braşov utterly wrecked their opponent.

Local FC Brasov fans watch the game from bloc apartments

Heck, even Avril Lavigne showed up outide the stadium bar.

Avril Lavigne at a Brasov bar

By my unofficial and meal-distracted account, FC Braşov was dismantling the other team some 27 to 0. But the official scoreboard and clock seem to have been untouched since the 1989 “revolution.”

FC Brasov stadium scoreboard and clock are broken

Ultimately, the visiting club was soundly defeated. And with the end of the game, came the end of the rain — and noise. As the bus drove off, it was only then I learned the boys in white were SC Municipal from Ramnicu Valcea, where I’ve met some folks I’m highly partial to.

Team bus for CS Municipal from Ramnicu Valcea

Moral: There’s just no sleeping in, Sambata.

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6 Responses to “Sleeping in Sambata”

  1. Andrea Says:

    This entry gets the Golden Electric Whistle Award for making me snort chocolate milk from laughing so hard. What you described is a fairly typical Saturday morning in the “Cartier” - I remember those from the pre - ‘89 period, when we were living in a neighborhood pretty much like yours, the only difference being that Manele were not very popular at that time- the boomboxers preferred to let us listen to folk music from various parts of the country. (Mai dorule maaaaaaaaaaai)

  2. Ionuka Says:

    Is that a tiger on the carpet? I hope so.

  3. Romerican Says:

    Shrinky - I’m glad to see I’m not the only one! This past week Leilouta caused me to have my own nasal incident.

    Ionuka - I think it might be a leopard print. But does that make him any more sexy? Grrr, baby, grrr.

  4. Dan, A Muh Fucka From Slatina Says:

    jus’ another day in da hooooood….

  5. Romer!can - Dispatches from an American in Transylvania Says:

    […] Having survived the night relatively intact, we awoke to a bright sun-shiney day and the sounds of Romania. Some undisclosable delays were encountered which pushed back the whirling hands of time. Of course, we had to make arrangements for Azorel to end up in a friendly home rather than risk a roadkill incident during the journey. […]

  6. Mihai Says:

    About covoare sambata…it bothers me sooo much since i have a batator de covoare right under my window… and some very harnice middle aged neighbors who have nothing else to do at 9 o clok on saturdays… i’m going mad… pretty soon i’ll do something about that… u’ve been a true inspiration…i hope by the next time u’ll be visiting here the matter would be resolved at least in cartierul astra I’ll keep u updated … wish u’d be here to organize a cut down on batatoare since they belong to nobody(just lik corcodusele) Let the revolution begin;)

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